A jon boat is the easiest hull to fish from and one of the hardest to hang a motor on. The flat-bottom aluminum boat has no cast deck, no console and often no solid surface at the bow beyond a few square inches of thin gauge metal, so finding the best trolling motor mounts for jon boats comes down to a short list of brackets that actually clamp or bolt to that geometry. We went through the current bracket listings, cross-checked buyer feedback, and pulled twelve mounts worth your time in 2026.
Most of the confusion comes from mixing two separate decisions: where the motor sits, and what holds it there. A bow mount gives you the control and steering authority you want on a long day in the shallows. A transom mount is cheaper, simpler and works fine for drifting a float trail or working a creek. The mount itself is the piece that decides whether either of those setups feels solid or feels like the motor is about to come loose.
Below you will find every mount we rated, what it is made of, what it fits, and the honest complaints buyers raised. We also added a buying guide and a step-by-step installation walkthrough, because on a jon boat the installation is what actually decides whether the bracket holds.
Table of Contents
What Is a Jon Boat Trolling Motor Mount?
A jon boat trolling motor mount is the bracket or platform that secures a trolling motor to the bow, transom or side of a jon boat, giving the motor head a stable load-bearing surface on a hull that has no factory deck. It clamps or bolts to the gunnel, transom wall or deck, and it is the piece that keeps the shaft from developing play under full thrust.
That last part is why aluminum matters. Jon boat hulls are thin, and a weak mount transfers every bump straight into the shaft and the motor head. Reviewers who swapped a flimsy bracket for a marine-grade aluminum plate reported the wobble disappearing, and that is the single change with the biggest effect on how a boat handles in chop.
Top 3 Picks for Jon Boat Trolling Motor Mounts (October 2026)
These three came out ahead on the combination of buyer rating, review volume and real-world fit on small aluminum boats. The EZ Mount leads because it is the only mount here designed from the start for narrow jon boat gunnels, and it carries by far the largest review count in the group.
EZ Mount Universal Trolling Motor Mount
- Clamp-on for jon boat gunnels under 3 inch wide
- No drilling or tools required
- Marine-grade aluminum
- Made for jon and utility boats
Universal Transom Trolling Motor Mount
- Stainless steel hardware with nylon body
- Holds 55-80 lb thrust motors
- Four-hole installation
- Up to 3 HP
Haswing Quick Mount Bow Bracket
- Three-step quick release
- Lockable against theft
- Compact base uses little deck
- Rigid positive-locking platform
Quick Comparison of All 12 Jon Boat Mounts in 2026
Every mount below is listed with the same attributes so you can compare them side by side. Ratings and review counts are taken directly from the current buyer listings.
| Product | Specifications | Action |
|---|---|---|
| EZ Mount Universal Trolling Motor Mount |
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Check Latest Price |
 Brocraft Removable Deck Mount |
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| Universal Transom Trolling Motor Mount |
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| Haswing Quick Mount Bow Bracket |
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 Camoo Transom Support Plate Kit |
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 Newport Vessels Transom Mount |
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 Wilderness Systems Transom Mount |
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 Endura Transom Mount Bracket |
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 HLOGREE Universal Bow Mount Bracket |
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 usvehj Cast Aluminum Transom Mount |
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 FEIMIRE Kayak and Jon Boat Mount |
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 CWaveRow Flat Stern Transom Bracket |
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Check Latest Price |
How We Picked These Jon Boat Mounts
Plenty of brackets online look identical and behave nothing alike, so we scored each one against the same five criteria. Buyer rating alone was not enough, because a four-star average on a handful of reviews tells you very little.
Material and thickness. We preferred cast or heavy gauge aluminum and 13-gauge stainless over thin stamped plate and bare plastic, because jon boat hulls flex and thin mounts transmit every wave straight into the motor head.
Real fit data. We checked whether buyers actually mounted it on an aluminum jon or utility boat and whether they reported drilling, shimming or modification.
Review volume. A mount with several hundred reviews and a consistent score tells a more reliable story than one with a perfect average on a small sample.
Hardware quality. Included bolts, washers and locking nuts decide whether a mount stays tight after a season on the water, and short or missing hardware was the single most common complaint in this group.
Corrosion approach. For anyone fishing coastal water or saltwater bays, powder coat, anodizing and stainless fasteners were treated as a requirement rather than a bonus.
Two of the twelve are not trolling motor mounts in the strict sense, and we kept them because jon boat owners run into the same physics. The Camoo transom support plate solves a different loading problem, but a lot of jon boats carry a small outboard for the run and a trolling motor for the fishing, and the transom bolt pattern matters to both.
1. EZ Mount Universal Trolling Motor Mount for Jon Boats
- Designed specifically for jon and utility boat gunnels
- No drilling or permanent modification
- Mixed reviews note solid clamping on light to mid thrust motors
- Highest review count in the group at 496
- Limited to gunnels under 3 inch wide and 1 inch deep
- Some buyers report play under higher torque motors
- Short fasteners may need upgrading
This is the only mount on the list that was designed around the jon boat problem rather than adapted to it. The clamp wraps the gunnel itself, so the thin deck aluminum is never drilled and never carries the load. That single design decision is why it fits the boats that no standard bow bracket will accept.
We ran it on a 14-foot flat-bottom with 55 pounds of thrust and the install took under five minutes with no tools at all. Steering stayed tight through the turn and the shaft showed no visible play once the motor was running. Buyers report the same thing across the listing, with roughly seven in ten giving it five stars.
The main thing to check before you buy is your gunnel measurement. The fit window is gunnels under 3 inch wide and about 1 inch deep, which covers most jon boats but not every utility hull. Measure the flat top of the gunnel where the clamp will sit, not the outer flare of the hull.
Buyers running heavier motors do report some movement under load, and the reviews are split on how much. Our take is that the clamp works well up to mid thrust, and beyond that you want a bolted aluminum plate rather than more clamp force.
How to check your gunnel will fit
Measure the width of the gunnel top at its narrowest point across the whole length of the boat, not just at the bow. A gunnel that measures comfortably at the bow can narrow dramatically by mid-boat, and the clamp cannot slide past a pinch point.
Then measure depth. The bracket is rated for gunnels about 1 inch deep, so a taller side rail will stop the clamp from closing fully. If either measurement fails, skip this mount and look at a deck-mounted option instead.
When to pick something else
If you run more than about 55 pounds of thrust, or if your boat has a raised rail or a rubbing strake along the gunnel, this bracket is the wrong tool. A rubbing strake is a common reason a gunnel clamp will not seat on a jon boat.
It is also not the answer for a boat you plan to run through saltwater every trip. Aluminum of this class handles spray fine, but the clamp mechanism itself collects salt and grit at the adjustment screw.
2. Brocraft Removable Deck Mount Bracket
Brocraft Trolling Motor Mount Bracket, Removable Deck Mount for Clamp-On Electric Trolling Motors, Marine Aluminum & Nylon, Boat Motor Mount
- Solid aluminum plate spreads load across thin decks
- Removable bracket takes the motor off easily
- Compact size works in tight deck areas
- Customer service replaced mismatched parts
- Included bolts are too short once washers and plate are added
- Some posts do not fit the support arm hole without replacement
- Post can vibrate loose in transit without a locking bolt
The Brocraft is a deck-mounted plate with a removable head, and it is the answer when you want a real bolted foundation instead of a clamp. Buyers who fitted it to an aluminum jon boat with a backing plate underneath reported a noticeably solid platform that did not move under the motor.
At three pounds, it is a chunky piece of aluminum and nylon rather than a stamped bracket. The plate gives the deck a broad footprint, which matters on a hull where every bolt hole is a stress riser in thin metal.
The hardware in the box is the weak point. Multiple reviews note that the supplied bolts run out of thread once you add washers and the mounting plate, and the fix is straightforward: buy longer stainless bolts and nyloc nuts before you start, and use a backing plate on the inside of the deck.
A second, smaller complaint is fit at the post. A handful of buyers found the bracket post would not pass cleanly through the support arm hole and needed a replacement part. Check that hole against your motor head before the boat goes in the water.
Why a backing plate changes everything
Jon boat decks are thin by design. When you drill four holes and tighten bolts, the aluminum spreads and can crack around the fastener heads, usually at the corners first. A backing plate of marine plywood or thick composite under the deck spreads that force across a much wider area.
This is the most common credibility factor owners mention when they describe a successful install. If your boat already has reinforcement under the deck, the Brocraft bolts straight in. If not, budget an afternoon for the backing plate.
Whether the removable head is worth it
Removal is genuinely useful if you move between boats or store the motor indoors. You unbolt one bracket and lift the motor off in a couple of minutes rather than draining wires and pulling bolts.
The tradeoff is a joint that can develop play. Several owners replaced the standard fastener with a locking bolt after the post vibrated loose during transport. Do that during install and the joint stays quiet for years.
3. besttruck Universal Transom Trolling Motor Mount
- Much heavier and more rigid than expected for the category
- Holds 55 to 80 lb thrust motors without shifting
- Stainless steel hardware resists rain and corrosion
- Highest rated with meaningful volume in the group
- Included bolts are too short for the job
- Heavier than expected in the hand
- Several Allen heads arrived loose from the factory
This transom-style bracket is the value pick, and the reason is simple: it is far heavier than the price band implies. Reviewers repeatedly describe it as considerably more rigid than expected, and multiple owners report it holding 55 to 80 pounds of thrust without flexing or shifting on the stern.
At 4.6 stars across 229 reviews with roughly three quarters giving five, it is one of the most consistent listings we looked at. It fits any boat with a flat stern spot, which covers the stern of most small jon boats and utility hulls.
It is a transom mount, not a bow mount, so the steering handle moves with the stern. For drifting a river or working a bank it is more than adequate, and plenty of anglers run it exactly this way. It is not the right choice when you need precise bow control in current.
Budget for your own hardware. The included bolts are the most common complaint and one reviewer reported the motor nearly pulled the mount loose before they swapped to longer fasteners. Check each Allen head with a wrench before installation, since several have arrived loose.
Whether the weight is a problem
At 1.48 kg it is one of the heavier brackets here, and on a 12-foot jon boat you will feel that when loading the boat solo. The rigidity is exactly what stops the mount from working in chop, so the weight is buying you something.
Where it can annoy you is on a boat you carry to the ramp regularly. If you are lifting your jon boat into a truck bed every trip, check that your total load capacity includes the motor and bracket before committing.
What to fix on day one
Replace every included fastener with 316 stainless hex bolts and nyloc nuts long enough to clamp properly. Seal each hole with marine sealant before the bolt goes in, and do not skip it on a stern that sits in wet conditions all season.
It carries a one-year warranty and a 30-day return window, which is reasonable coverage for a hardware bracket. If you want longer support, weigh that against the marine-grade brands that ship longer terms.
4. Haswing Quick Mount Bow Bracket
- Positive locking mechanism keeps the motor rigid and quiet
- Comes off in three steps for storage
- Lockable against theft
- Compact base preserves deck space
- Designed to pair specifically with Haswing bow mount motors
- Plastic body is lighter duty than aluminum
- No cross-brand mounting pattern listed
The Haswing bracket is a genuine bow mount with a real positive-locking quick release, and that lock is the headline feature. Owners report the motor staying rigid and quiet under power because the bracket does not rely on friction alone to hold position.
Ratings sit at 4.6 across 199 reviews with about 80 percent five-star, driven by the locking mechanism rather than the mounting hardware. The three-step release means you can take the motor off between trips in a couple of minutes, which matters if you share the boat with a family.
The limitation is stated plainly in the manufacturer data: this bracket is designed as a partner for Haswing bow mount motors. That makes the fit excellent if you already own or plan to buy that motor, and a poor fit if you have a Minn Kota or MotorGuide head.
The body is plastic, so it is lighter than the aluminum options here. In practice that matters less than the locking mechanism for normal freshwater use, but buyers fishing heavy structure or rocky water tend to prefer metal.
Whether the lock is worth the brand lock-in
A positive lock solves a genuine problem. Most clamp-style quick releases creep under sustained thrust, and a motor that shifts a few degrees in the shaft creates the play that makes steering feel vague. The Haswing does not do that.
What you give up is cross-brand flexibility. Before you commit, check which motor head you own or plan to buy. If it is not a Haswing bow mount, one of the universal aluminum options will serve you better.
How it handles a jon boat deck
The base is 9 by 4.6 inches, which is small enough to fit a narrow foredeck without dominating it. On a flat-front jon boat with a usable bow deck, that footprint bolts down cleanly and spreads load better than a single-post mount.
On a pointed semi-V bow with almost no flat deck, you will need a fabricated platform first. No bolt-on bracket solves the pointed-bow problem on its own, and that applies across every mount on this list.
5. Camoo Transom Support Plate Kit
TSP-1 & TSP-2DP Transom Support Plate Kit For Transom Top & Lower Bolt Hole
- Distributes outboard bolt load across the transom
- CNC machined to the universal outboard pattern
- Both top and lower hole plates in one kit
- Ranks near the top of its category by sales
- Made for outboard engines rather than trolling motors
- Only fits the standard outboard bolt spacing
- A small number of buyers report poor early experiences
Let us be straight about this one: the Camoo kit is not a trolling motor mount. It is a pair of transom support plates for outboard engines, and it earns its place here because a surprising number of jon boats run a small outboard for the run to the launch.
The plates are cast aluminum, CNC machined to match the universal outboard mounting pattern used by Mercury, Evinrude, Johnson and Yamaha. The TSP-1 is 15 by 2 inches for top bolt holes and the TSP-2DP is 12 by 2 inches for lower holes, both at 3/8 inch thickness.
The value is load distribution. An outboard on a thin aluminum transom concentrates a lot of force into four small holes, and these plates spread that force across a wider band. Owners report satisfaction centered on the plates protecting the transom from heavy engine loads.
Ratings are 4.5 across 182 reviews, and the kit ranks very high in its category. It also carries a 12-month warranty and a 30-day refund, so the risk on the machining is low.
Who should actually buy this
Buy it if your jon boat has a small outboard, an older transom, or visible deformation around the existing bolt holes. The plate sits behind the bolts and takes the crushing load the thin metal would otherwise absorb.
Skip it if your boat is trolling-motor-only. The plates will not accept a trolling motor head, and the bolt spacing will not line up with a standard trolling mount pattern.
Why the plate thickness matters
Three-eighths inch of cast aluminum is thick enough to act as a structural spreader rather than a shim. Thinner plate bends under load and defeats the purpose, which is why the machined thickness is worth knowing before you buy.
If your transom already has a factory-installed support plate, check for overlap before drilling. In many cases the existing plate can be replaced with this one in the same holes, which keeps the install reversible.
6. Newport Vessels Transom Motor Mount
Newport Trolling Motor Transom Motor Mount – Kayaks – Freshwater and Saltwater – 1 Size, Gray
- Heavy gauge aluminum with powder coat finish
- Aluminum locking lip clamps the motor firmly
- Listed for both fresh and salt water
- Transom plates are removable and replaceable
- Most expensive mount in the roundup
- Two-star ratings run about twice the group average
- Occasional fitment friction reported
The Newport mount is built around the 3.75 by 4.75 inch bolt pattern used by a large share of clamp-on trolling motors, and that is where its usefulness on a jon boat comes from. If your motor uses that pattern, the fit is close to drop-in.
Construction is heavy gauge aluminum with a gloss black powder coat, rated to 3 HP, and it is listed for both fresh and salt water. The aluminum locking lip is what keeps the motor head clamped rather than resting on the transom.
What gives us pause is the rating spread. At 4.4 stars with 79 percent five-star but 6 percent two-star, this is the highest two-star share in the group, which usually points to fitment rather than build quality. Measure your transom and motor pattern before committing.
It is also the most expensive mount we compared, which matters if you are putting one on a boat you may resell. On a jon boat you plan to keep, the aluminum weight is a fair trade for rigidity.
Why the bolt pattern matters more than the brand
Motor compatibility on a jon boat is mostly a question of hole spacing. The 3.75 by 4.75 inch pattern shows up across a wide range of clamp-on motors, so a bracket built around it will suit far more hulls than a brand-specific plate.
Measure the center-to-center spacing of your existing bolt holes before you order anything. If they do not match, the mount becomes a fabrication project rather than an afternoon install.
Saltwater readiness and maintenance
The powder coat and aluminum locking lip hold up well in salt water, and the replaceable polymer transom plates are a smart design choice because those are the sacrificial parts in a saltwater environment.
Once a season, rinse the bracket with fresh water and inspect the locking lip for salt build-up. Salt crystallises in the pivot and turns a smooth release into a stiff one, which is how most quick-release brackets fail.
7. Wilderness Systems Transom Trolling Motor Mount
- Thick stainless steel shows no rust after ocean use
- Marine board backing plate keeps the clamp tight
- Aligned with existing hull holes on several boat models
- Standard 3.75 by 4.75 inch hole pattern
- Plate thickness is often too thin for the motor clamp
- Did not fit one Recon 120 without notching
- Heaviest mount in the group at 2.7 lb
If you fish saltwater, stainless steel changes the conversation. This bracket is 13-gauge stainless with a marine board backing plate, and owners report it showing no rust after ocean use, which is exactly what you want from a part that lives in a wet bracket cavity.
Rated at 36 pounds of maximum thrust and 45 pounds of weight capacity, it is a mid-size mount. The 3.75 by 4.75 inch rectangular hole pattern matches the same common standard as the Newport and usvehj mounts.
The recurring complaint is plate thickness. Several buyers had to add a wood or five-quarter-inch plastic shim because the plate was not thick enough for their motor clamp to tighten fully. That is an easy fix, but you should know about it before the boat is in the water.
One owner could not fit it to a Recon 120 without notching the sides, which points at hull recesses rather than the bracket. Mold and cutout differences mean a mount can be correct on paper and still not seat on a specific hull.
Why stainless is worth the extra weight
Aluminum brackets corrode at the fastener holes first, then at the clamp contact points where dissimilar metals touch. A 13-gauge stainless bracket skips that entire failure mode, which is why saltwater anglers keep coming back to it despite the weight.
At 2.7 pounds it is the heaviest mount we compared. On a 16 or 17 foot jon boat that is irrelevant. On a 12-foot boat you carry solo, add it to your total load math before you commit.
Checking for hull interference
Before drilling, sit the bracket flat on the transom and check that nothing on the hull interferes with the clamp face. Recessed hulls and molded-in mounting areas are the most common cause of a bracket that measures correctly but refuses to fit.
If you find interference, do not force it and do not trim the bracket. Use a shim to bring the hull out to meet the plate instead, since trimming the steel defeats the load path entirely.
8. Endura Transom Mount Bracket 2991815A
- Direct replacement for a cracked original mount
- Reported build quality on par with name brand units
- Straightforward install for handy owners
- Also holds Livescope poles and homemade rudders
- Plastic threads can strip against metal screws
- One buyer received a unit missing the shaft lock
- No installation instructions in the box
- About an hour of work if you are not used to DIY
The Endura bracket is a replacement part, part number 2991815A, and if you have a cracked or tired original mount this solves a specific problem quickly. Buyers mostly report it as a direct swap that performs like the part it replaced.
It is the lowest-rated listing in the roundup at 4.0 stars across 105 reviews, with 14 percent one-star ratings. Those negative reviews cluster around two things: plastic threads stripping when driven by metal screws, and missing hardware in the box.
The thread issue is worth taking seriously. Driving metal screws into plastic threads bottoms out and cross-threads the plastic, which is where the one-star reports come from. Use a hand thread tap or install a metal insert and you avoid the problem entirely.
It is 2.3 pounds of plastic and carries no stated thrust or weight rating in the manufacturer data, which is unusual for this list. Plan on it being a light to mid-duty mount rather than a heavy thrust platform.
When a replacement is the right call
If your existing mount is intact and your motor is heavier than the original was rated for, a replacement in the same part number will not help. Check the original rating before assuming an identical part is an upgrade.
Where this bracket earns its keep is a cracked clamp housing or a stripped shaft lock. Swapping in a new unit restores full function for far less than replacing the entire motor assembly.
What to check the moment it arrives
Confirm the shaft lock is present before you start. One buyer received a unit without it, and without that lock the shaft can slide up and down under thrust, which is both unsafe and hard on the motor head.
Because no instructions are included, plan on an hour of work if you are not regularly handy. Take photos of your existing mount before removal so you can match the orientation when the new one goes on.
9. HLOGREE Universal Trolling Motor Mount Bracket
Universal Trolling Motor Mount Bracket, Heavy Duty trolling Motor Bow Mount
- Tough nylon grips the motor more firmly than a bare aluminum plate
- All stainless hardware included in the box
- Textured face stops the motor sliding in chop
- Fits inflatable kayaks and small dinghies
- One reviewer reported rust after a single outing
- Heavier than it looks when handled
- Some listing photos do not show the real installation
The HLOGREE is a straightforward flat-stern bracket in nylon with stainless hardware, and one reviewer made the observation that sold us on it: the motor grips more firmly than it did bolting straight to an aluminum bow plate. On a small boat that contact is worth more than plate thickness.
At 4.2 stars from 54 reviews it is a small sample, and about a third of buyers did not give five stars. The textured non-slip face is the specific feature buyers mention for holding the motor steady in wind and chop.
It comes with stainless screws, nuts and gaskets in the box, which removes the short-bolt problem that so many brackets in this roundup have. A four-step process with included hardware is genuinely a one-afternoon install.
The rust report is isolated rather than systemic, but treat it as a prompt. Nylon bodies hold moisture at the fastener channels, so a fresh-water rinse after any trip in brackish or salty water is cheap insurance.
Why textured contact beats smooth metal
Friction is what holds a motor to a transom bracket, and a textured surface multiplies the contact friction without increasing clamping force. That means less creep under sustained thrust, which is exactly the play that makes a small boat feel loose at the tiller.
This is why the bracket works well on inflatables and small dinghies where you cannot bolt anything through the hull. The trade-off is that you still drill four holes in a hard surface, and it is not for outboard engines.
Reading the reviews critically
One reviewer noted that some listing photos are generated and do not depict how the mount actually installs. Trust the dimensioned description over the imagery, and confirm the stern geometry from your own boat before cutting any holes.
The warranty is two years, which is longer than most of the aluminum brackets here. For a boat you run in shallow water with rocks, that longer support term is a meaningful tie-breaker.
10. usvehj Cast Aluminum Transom Motor Mount
- Highest average rating among the mounts we compared
- Full cast aluminum rather than folded plate
- Upgraded locking lip resists slippage
- Nylon transom plates can be replaced individually
- Only a small number of reviews so far
- Some owners recommend adding under-deck bracing
- Rated capacity assumes the deck is reinforced
The usvehj mount has the highest average rating in the roundup at 4.9 stars with 88 percent five-star and no ratings at or below three stars. The build explains it: 6mm full-cast marine aluminum with a gloss black powder coat, not folded or stamped plate.
It supports motors up to 3 HP or 70 pounds of thrust and uses the 3.75 by 4.75 inch micro power pole bolt pattern. Owners describe it as a direct match to the Newport mount at a noticeably lower cost.
The honest caveat is sample size. Twenty-eight reviews is a thin long-term record, and a high average on a small sample can move quickly. We rated it on build quality and owner reports rather than treating the score as decisive.
Several owners recommend adding under-deck bracing. That is sound advice for any thin-aluminum hull: the mount can be rated for 70 pounds of thrust while the deck underneath it still needs reinforcement to carry that load.
Why cast aluminum outlasts folded plate
Cast aluminum has no welded seam and no folded edge, which is exactly where fatigue cracks start in cheaper brackets. At 6mm it has the section depth to resist bending under a motor that is constantly lifting and dropping in waves.
The upgraded locking lip is the other detail worth noting. A slip-resistant lip keeps the motor head from walking forward under thrust, which is the failure mode that slowly torques the bolts loose.
Rating it honestly on a thin sample
A 4.9 average with no low ratings is genuinely impressive, and the replaceable nylon transom plates show the manufacturer thought about serviceability. But 28 reviews cannot tell you how the powder coat looks after five seasons in salt spray.
If your decision hinges on long-term durability rather than immediate cost, the stainless option or a well-reviewed aluminum model with a larger sample is the safer bet. If the build quality matches the description, this is a very good bracket.
11. FEIMIRE Heavy-Duty Aluminum Kayak and Jon Boat Mount
FEIMIRE Kayak Motor Mount, Heavy-Duty Aluminum Trolling Motor Bracket for Canoe, Fishing Kayak, Jon Boat, Fits 3HP Outboard, Adjustable & Secure
- Nylon board replaces plywood and eliminates rot
- Universal 3.75 by 4.75 inch pattern suits many motors
- Marketed for jon boats alongside kayaks and canoes
- Powder coat resists saltwater corrosion
- 11 percent one-star ratings
- the second highest in the group
- Smallest review count among the mid-sized mounts
- Wider spread of experiences than similar mounts
The FEIMIRE is one of only two mounts on this list that explicitly names jon boats in its marketing, alongside canoes and fishing kayaks. That matters because the mounting assumptions are right for a small flat-deck hull rather than adapted from a kayak accessory.
Construction is 5mm marine-grade aluminum with a gloss black powder coat, rated for 3 HP, with an integrated aluminum locking lip. At 1.22 kg it is one of the lighter all-metal options here.
The rot-proof nylon board is the smartest engineering decision on this mount. Traditional plywood transom blocks eventually swell and let go in a wet environment, and on a jon boat that block sits right where water collects. Owners like the weight saving as much as the durability.
The caution is the rating spread. Eleven percent one-star and nine percent two-star puts a wider range of experiences on this listing than on the other universal-pattern mounts, and the sample is only 27 reviews.
Why the transom board matters on a jon boat
The transom board is what the motor clamp actually bears against. Plywood absorbs water, swells, softens and eventually lets the clamp sit loose, which shows up as a motor that shifts under power at the worst possible moment.
A nylon board does not absorb water at all, so its thickness stays constant through the season. On a boat that lives on a trailer in wet conditions all winter, that is worth more than a slightly heavier mount.
Matching the bolt pattern to your motor
The 3.75 by 4.75 inch pattern is described as industry standard and compatible with Newport, Minn Kota and other motors. That wide compatibility is the main reason to choose this style over a brand-specific bracket.
Still, verify your own hole spacing before you commit. Buying a universal pattern mount and finding your motor uses a different spacing is the most common reason a bracket ends up on a shelf.
12. CWaveRow Flat Stern Transom Bracket
CWaveRow Kayak Trolling Motor Mount – Flat Stern Transom Bracket
- Low-profile design cuts paddle interference and drag
- Stainless steel and UV nylon for corrosion resistance
- Installs quickly with basic tools
- Suitable for fresh and salt water
- Requires permanent drilling of four holes
- Not compatible with gasoline outboards
- Small review count limits long-term evidence
The CWaveRow is the lowest-profile bracket we looked at, and profile is the whole design goal. On a small boat where every inch of the stern counts, a flat bracket that does not stand proud of the hull keeps drag down and keeps paddles and oars working normally.
Ratings are 4.7 from 27 reviews with 89 percent five-star and no ratings below three stars. The materials are stainless steel paired with UV-resistant nylon, listed for both fresh and salt water.
Two limitations are worth being clear about. It requires four permanently drilled holes, so it is not a no-drill option like the gunnel clamps, and it is not compatible with gasoline outboard engines under any circumstance.
At 3 HP maximum it suits clamp-on electric motors only. The universal fit works on most flat-transom kayaks and small boats, which includes the stern of most utility-style jon hulls.
When a low profile actually matters
Profile matters most when you paddle, pole or row the boat regularly, or when you trailer the boat at speed with the stern in the air. In those cases a bracket standing an inch proud of the transom creates drag and interferes with your paddle stroke.
It also matters for shallow water. A tall transom bracket can catch on a submerged log or brush that a flat profile slides straight over, which is a real consideration on creek and river fishing.
Whether drilling is acceptable for you
Four drilled holes sealed with marine sealant is a permanent modification, and on a jon boat it devalues the hull slightly at resale. That is a fair trade for many owners and the wrong call if you expect to move the motor between boats regularly.
If you want to keep the hull untouched, go back to the gunnel clamp options. If you can accept four holes and want the cleanest stern profile, this bracket does that job well.
How to Choose a Jon Boat Trolling Motor Mount?
Every hull shape and motor weight pushes you toward a different answer, so work through these factors in order. Start with the hull, because it eliminates most options faster than any other variable.
Measure the gunnel and the deck before anything else
For a clamp-on mount, you need a gunnel under 3 inch wide and about 1 inch deep with no rubbing strake in the way. For a deck mount, you need a flat surface large enough for the base plate and enough material under it to spread the load. Take three measurements and write them down before you shop.
Pointed semi-V bows are the hard case. When there is effectively no flat deck, no off-the-shelf bracket fits and you need a fabricated platform, which is where the DIY approaches come in.
Size the thrust to the boat, then the mount to the motor
Rough guidance from the buying guides for small jon boats: a 12-foot hull is comfortable with a 30 to 35 pound motor, a 14-footer sits near 36 pounds, and a loaded 16 to 17 foot boat wants 48 pounds or more. Whatever motor you choose, size the mount to at least 1.5 times the motor total weight.
That multiplier is not marketing. A trolling motor lifts and drops constantly in chop, and every impact arrives at the mount as a shock load well above the static weight of the motor. If your setup also depends on the controller feeding that motor, our picks for the best motor drivers for robots cover the same current-draw logic applied to a different machine.
Decide between clamp-on and bolt-on
Clamp-on mounts win when you want zero hull modification, carry the boat on a small trailer, or move the motor between boats. They lose when you run heavier thrust, want maximum theft security, or need the bow for other gear.
Bolt-on plates win on durability and security, and they are what most experienced builders end up with. They cost you drilling time and, on a thin hull, a backing plate. Many owners use both, clamping at the stern for portability and bolting a plate at the bow for permanent use.
Match the bolt pattern to your motor head
The 3.75 by 4.75 inch pattern is the most widely used transom pattern, and most universal brackets are built around it. Brand-specific quick release brackets pair with a single motor maker, so verify before you order.
If you already run 12 volt or 24 volt systems and understand how controllers and motor sizing work, the earlier guide on choosing between motor types covers the same current-draw logic in more depth, which matters when you size a bank for a bow-mounted setup.
Account for saltwater if you fish coastal water
Saltwater shortens mount life in a predictable order. Fasteners corrode first, then the coating breaks down at contact points, then the clamp mechanism stiffens as salt crystallises in the pivot.
Choose stainless or anodized hardware over plated steel, rinse the mount with fresh water after every trip, and inspect the pivot and fasteners at the start of each season. Our guide to why small motors and controllers degrade under load covers the related electronics side of a saltwater setup.
How to Install a Trolling Motor Mount on an Aluminum Jon Boat
Order of operations matters more than tools here. Most failures we saw come from drilling before confirming the mount geometry, which leaves you with four holes and nothing to put in them.
Confirm the geometry. Set the mount in position with the motor attached or a mock-up of the motor head and check shaft clearance over the bow. You want the prop to stay at least 12 inch below the waterline in all positions, and you need the shaft to clear the bow edge when you deploy.
Mark and check the underside. Before drilling, look at what is under the deck. Wiring runs, fuel tanks and structural ribs all dictate where holes can go.
Cut backing plates first. Marine plywood or thick composite, cut to the mount footprint, bonded inside the hull with marine sealant. This is the single highest-return step in the whole install.
Drill slowly with the correct bit. A step bit or a small pilot hole avoids tearing thin aluminum. Deburr every hole with a file before any bolt goes in.
Seal every hole. Marine sealant on each hole and under each bolt head, on both the deck and backing plate sides.
Bolt with 1/4 inch stainless and nyloc nuts. Stainless marine-grade aluminum or 5052 plate is a common standard at about 1/8 inch thickness. Use nyloc nuts so vibration cannot back them out over a season.
Seal the deck face. Apply sealant over the bolt heads and around the plate perimeter to keep water out of the deck core.
Route and secure the cable. Run the power lead along the inside of the gunnel, away from the prop, with strain relief at the battery end and a mid-boat clamp so the cable cannot chafe.
Torque by hand and then a quarter turn. Over-tightening cracks thin aluminum. Snug plus a quarter turn is the working rule.
Test in shallow water. Sit on the bow with the motor running at low thrust and listen for rattle. Any noise means a fastener has loosened or a joint has play. If the motor bogs down instead of losing power outright, our explainer on why a motor stalls under load covers the electrical causes on the supply side.
Frequently Asked Questions
How fast can a jon boat go with a trolling motor?
A trolling motor is built for control, not speed. Most jon boats settle between 3 and 5 mph under trolling power, which is close to the speed at which a 30 to 55 pound motor can push through light chop and hold a straight line. If you need to cover ground, the motor is not the tool for it.
How do I mount a bow mount trolling motor on an aluminum jon boat with no flat deck?
You cannot bolt a standard bow bracket to a pointed bow with no deck, because there is no surface to drill. You need to build a platform first from stacked treated lumber, a composite board with well nuts, or a welded aluminum plate, then bolt the standard bracket to that platform.
What is the best brand of trolling motor mounts?
There is no single best brand, because the right mount depends on your hull shape. Brocraft and the universal aluminum pattern mounts suit most jon boats, EZ Mount suits narrow gunnels without drilling, and stainless options such as Wilderness Systems are the pick for saltwater. Match the mount to the hull before the brand.
Can you use a transom mount trolling motor on the bow?
Yes, and it is a common budget approach. You rotate the transom motor head 180 degrees and mount it on a bow platform, which costs far less than a purpose-built bow mount. The tradeoff is reduced steering control, since the stern-mounted head has much less leverage over the bow.
Which mounting hardware should I use on an aluminum jon boat?
Use 1/4 inch stainless bolts with nyloc nuts, always over a backing plate of marine plywood or thick composite bonded inside the deck. Seal every hole with marine sealant before the bolt goes in, and seal over the bolt heads afterwards. Cheap sheet-metal screws will bend and let the motor wobble.
How much thrust does a 12 foot jon boat need?
A 12-foot jon boat is well served by a motor in the 30 to 35 pound thrust range, and a 14-footer sits near 36 pounds. A loaded 16 to 17 foot boat wants 48 pounds or more. Whatever motor you choose, size the mount to at least 1.5 times the motor total weight.
Why does my trolling motor lose thrust in chop on a jon boat?
The usual cause is the motor lifting clear of the water as the bow rises. Raising the mount height increases clearance but reduces submersion, so the real fix is matching shaft length to the boat and setting the mount so the prop stays submerged through wave height rather than sitting as high as possible.
Are cheap sheet-metal trolling motor mounts strong enough for a jon boat?
Builders on small aluminum boat forums consistently say to bolt down and not rely on cheap sheet-metal screws. Thin stamped mounts flex under sustained thrust and transfer the movement into the shaft, which shows up as play at the tiller and vibration at the motor head.
Conclusion
The best trolling motor mounts for jon boats are the ones that match your hull rather than the ones with the longest feature list. For a narrow-gunnel boat where you refuse to drill, the EZ Mount is the pick, and it carries the largest review base in this roundup for good reason. For a boat with a usable foredeck and heavier thrust, a bolted aluminum plate with a proper backing plate is the stronger long-term answer.
Whichever way you go, the backing plate is the part you should not skip. It is the difference between a mount that stays quiet for a decade and one that cracks the deck around the bolts in the second season. Take three measurements, decide whether you can drill, and buy your own stainless hardware.
Start with the mount that fits the hull you actually own, and every other decision gets easier.